The 2009 GEWURZTRAMINER “APPELLATION” is off dry, with 8 grams per liter of residual sugar. With classic aromatics and that distinctive bitterness on the finish, this gets the typical Gewurz characteristics right. A little sugar is necessary here, as it balances out the bitterness that this grape often shows and that is apparent here in spades. Relatively rich in its youth in texture and depth, it is better early on, but as it warms up, the bitterness takes over and it seems rich but one dimensional. I liked it less. Drink now-2012. These white wines are part of Carmel’s “Appellation” series, branded with labels that look more like etchings and feature various animals. Sourced from two to three vineyards within a small area, they are produced in relatively small quantities (13,000 bottles or less). Israel is not, perhaps, known for its whites, but Carmel in particular and Israel in general seem to be delivering some more interesting specimens these days. These for the most part did not strike me as truly distinguished, but they were generally pleasing, promising and interesting. Although Carmel’s output is generally imported, prices were not set as of the time reviewed as these wines had not yet arrived in our marketplace. In Israel, they are in the 55-62 shekel range. As a group, they showed some ability to age, but I would recommend drinking them on the young side for best results.Importer: Royal Wine Corp, Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118.
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