Another beauty is the 2008 Zinfandel Papera Ranch. Last year I thought this wine had more of a Pinot character than Zinfandel, but it seems to have taken on a lot of weight during its upbringing. Composed of 93% Zinfandel and 7% Carignane from a vineyard planted in 1934, yields were a whopping one ton of fruit per acre. Mike Officer's tendency to use around 20-30% new French oak and bottle his wines with no fining or filtration has been applied to this cuvee. Full-bodied with floral, peppery, spicy aromas intermixed with black cherry and raspberry fruit, it has a tangy, zesty acid profile that buttresses and gives zestiness to the wine's formidable personality. It should drink nicely for 5-6 years.
It is amazing to think that fifteen years ago no one had ever heard of Carlisle Winery and Vineyards or Mike Officer. Moreover, what Officer has done to preserve old vine Zinfandel vineyards in Sonoma is nothing short of astonishing. Add to that success story his sensational line-up of Syrahs, Petite Sirahs and Rhone Ranger blends and it is undeniable that this man and his winery are at the top of their game. These are artisanal, world-class reds that remain among California's most fairly priced high quality wines. Following is a look at the 2008s from bottle as well as a preview of the charming, seductive 2009s. Mike Officer says 2009 is a strong year for his wines, but since he has done nearly everything right, it is hard for me to say his 2009s are better than previous vintages. Certainly he will not have much production in 2010 given all the issues Zinfandel vineyards had in that year. Readers who love these wines are advised to stock up on what is left of the 2008s as well as the upcoming 2009s.
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