The Pfaffl 2007 Riesling Terrassen Sonnleiten – harvested mid-October – is lime-fruited, fresh strawberry-scented, chalky, and prominently marked by its low pH, pronounced phenolics, and reductive vinification. Still, one cannot help but be impressed with its combination of tactile density with modest alcohol and its finishing brightness and vivacity. Ought one to wait for it to settle down (how long)? I suspect this will be best paired appropriately over the next couple of years, collaborate with its lean, penetrating style. Temporarily, the Provence of Ontario appears to be the only North American importer for the wines of Pfaffl, a circumstance that needs to change.
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