The 2004 Zweigelt – vinified in tank save for a small portion in older barrique – offers high-toned cherry-almond aromas with notes of cinnamon spice. Surprisingly meaty and rich in the mouth but with plenty of fresh cherry throughout, this finishes just as much on salts and meat as cherry, guaranteeing its usefulness with a variety of foods. Once again, the team here has turned out an exceptional value, and a model of balance that shows – even at its modest price and with unpretentious vinification – why this grape is worthy of international attention. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner ($11.00; 85), 2005 Blaufrankisch ($12.00; 86)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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