The 2008 Chardonnay The Judge is exquisite. Full-bodied with layer upon layer of ripe stone fruits, crushed rocks, and floral notes, it is a honeyed, super-rich Chardonnay displaying a hint of tropical fruits in the long, 40-second finish (a remarkable length for a Chardonnay). This brilliant effort should last for 8-10 years.
Part viticultural evangelist, part wine wizard and part musical composer, John Kongsgaard remains one of the more singular personalities and interesting wine producers of Napa Valley. I have written many times about his “death and resurrection” theory of winemaking, and whether one agrees or disagrees with him is irrelevant. The proof is in vino veritas, and that’s exactly what he does year in and year out. With the exception of his Syrah from the Hudson Vineyard and his Cabernet Sauvignon from David Abreu’s vineyards in St. Helena, everything is produced from the estate vineyard, a 6-acre parcel high in the mountains off Coombsville Road. For a number of years, Kongsgaard has produced a small quantity (200 cases) of a Chardonnay called The Judge (an homage to his father). Although it is aged in 100% new oak for at least 20 months, it reveals no evidence of wood. Like the regular Chardonnay, The Judge is made from an Old Wente clone of Chardonnay that is believed to have come from cuttings of the Corton-Charlemagne holdings of Louis Latour at least fifty years ago. Kongsgaard’s touch with Bordeaux varietals is not as magical as it is with Chardonnay and Syrah. Nevertheless, these are still outstanding efforts, and I think his 2009 Proprietary Red will match his finest vintage to date, the 2007.
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