Morlet Family Vineyards Coup de Coeur Chardonnay, Sonoma County, USA

莫萊克爾霞多麗干白葡萄酒

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Luc Morlet showed me one cuvee of 2010, the 2010 Chardonnay Coup de Coeur, which flirts with perfection. This staggering Chardonnay exhibits hints of crushed rocks, white flowers, peaches, honey, creme caramel and subtle vanillin. This deep, layered, unfined and unfiltered Chardonnay should drink well for a decade. This is one of the up-and-coming superstar producers in Northern California. Owned by Luc Morlet, who comes from a French family that has long been making wines in Champagne, and who cut his Napa Valley teeth first for Newton and later Peter Michael. His American wife, Jodie, assists Luc Morlet, who still does consulting work at Peter Michael, although it is brother Nick who runs the show at Peter Michael from a winemaking perspective. The debut vintage for the Morlet Family Vineyards was 2006, and they have hardly missed a beat since then in turning out sumptuous Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Bordeaux-based blends, smaller proportions of a killer Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend, and a Cote Rotie-like Syrah. All of the following wines represent striking examples or Morlet-s talents. As for the 2012 Chardonnays, all will be bottled over the next four or five months. It is another great vintage for Morlet. All the wines come from the same sources, are 100% Chardonnay, see full malolactic fermentation, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. Fermentations are all done by indigenous yeasts and the wines are aged sur lie with lots of lees stirring. The 2012s are slightly more intense. The Pinot Noirs come from a vineyard on the second ridge of the Sonoma Coast appellation, all planted between 1,000 to 1,250 feet with a field selection brought in from one of the great grand cru vineyards in Vosne-Romanee. The 2011 production ranged from 150 cases of the Joli Coeur to nearly 200 cases each of the Coteaux Nobles and En Famille. Readers should not forget about the Morlet Family Vineyards- remarkable Syrah, which is a dead-ringer for a top-notch Cote Rotie given its floral character. I was sure some Viognier was included in the blend, but that-s not the case. The wines from this small boutique winery are not to be missed. Tel. (707) 967-8690

The 2010 Chardonnay Coup De Coeur is a selection of the estate’s finest barrels. It shows a bit more depth than the estate’s other 2010s, and also slightly riper tendencies in the fruit. Still, I find the qualitative difference between this and Ma Princesse minimal, at least at present. There is plenty of intensity in the tropical fruit, spices and almonds that frame the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2018. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup.Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com