Pfaffl Sauvignon Blanc Zeiser Am Eck

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Tasting the Pfaffl 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Zeiser am Eck is practically like weeding your garden without gloves. Strong oregano, pennyroyal, cress, and gooseberry aromas lead to a predictably pungent, tart, palate impression and a brightness and levity that belie the wine’s 13% alcohol. Juicy, bracing, and pungently herbal in finish, this strikes me as best enjoyed over the next couple of years. One section of this vineyard is on a spring-fed seam and stays green much longer. It used to be harvested separately and late, then blended back. But recently, Pfaffl decided he preferred the effect of letting all of the grapes hang slightly longer and then harvest them together. He certainly seems to have preserved more than enough of the greener material, but then, this wine’s personality is consistent with most Austrian Sauvignons of this vintage. Temporarily, the Provence of Ontario appears to be the only North American importer for the wines of Pfaffl, a circumstance that needs to change.